2015 Y. Rousseau Old Vines Colombard Russian River Valley, Sonoma County

Focused, precise, but wearing the mantle of old-vine wisdom

2015 Y. Rousseau Old Vines Colombard Russian River Valley, Sonoma County

Made from grapes grown on 42-year-old, dry farmed vines. They macerated for nine hours, after which the must was pressed and barrel fermented. The wine aged on lees for five months in 85 percent stainless steel with the balance in neutral French oak.

The result is juicy and lemon-stained, surprisingly undemonstrative of its original coupling with wood. The scent is pungently sharp, mixing citrus with sweetgrass and hay, and the flavor profile feels focused. But the body has some weight, too, perhaps from the concentrations of old vine fruit, and it finishes in a blaze of oil and peels that is reminiscent of polished bronze.

Mostly, though, it’s linear and so direct.

12.5% abv | about $20 (sample)

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