2012 Domaine Cheveau Les Champs Grillés Saint-Amour

“Genial and gamine, with trenchant acidity.”

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Saint-Amour is the northernmost, and smallest, cru of Beaujolais, and soils are a mix of granite, clay, schist, limestone—you name it. This wine was grown in sand and schist, and the Gamay vines have an average age of about 75 years, with some reaching almost to a century. The fruit is hand-sorted, macerated briefly, vinified with pigeage, then aged in stainless. Only a few hundred cases of each vintage make it to American soils.

It’s peppery, with a ruby-grapefruit kick, like the yellow spritz of the peel squeezed into the red juice of the core. Its pale garnet-hued body has an almost-sweetness that makes it feel genial and gamine, offset by trenchant acidity. Not heroic, and not trying to be. Refreshing.

13% abv | $22, Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant

 

 

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